41
Technical Support / Re: Dead Rosetta - SD card slot has come adrift
« Last Post by exfirepro on March 31, 2024, 08:15:48 pm »Hi again Graham,
I have PM'd you.
Peter
I have PM'd you.
Peter
Recent Posts
42
Technical Support / Just set up iGrid and get momentary voltage errors
« Last Post by kevkdg on March 31, 2024, 08:05:52 pm »Hi,
I've just added a Wi-Fi dongle which I took from my old PAW classic to my Rosetta in order to start using iGrid.
All configured and working fine.
However, in the hour or so I've been testing it out at home I noticed briefly that it complained about the voltage. I was able to take a photo of the tablet screen. It has done this a few times now, albeit very briefly each time. Most of the time is says voltage OK. Couple of photos attached to show the two.
I am using a PowerBank that I've always used without issue rated at 5-6v/3a 6-9v/2a 9-12v/1.5a and the supplied Rosetta JuiceBitz USB cable.
I am thinking the extra wi-fi dongle power draw is obviously causing this.
Any thoughts please?
I've just added a Wi-Fi dongle which I took from my old PAW classic to my Rosetta in order to start using iGrid.
All configured and working fine.
However, in the hour or so I've been testing it out at home I noticed briefly that it complained about the voltage. I was able to take a photo of the tablet screen. It has done this a few times now, albeit very briefly each time. Most of the time is says voltage OK. Couple of photos attached to show the two.
I am using a PowerBank that I've always used without issue rated at 5-6v/3a 6-9v/2a 9-12v/1.5a and the supplied Rosetta JuiceBitz USB cable.
I am thinking the extra wi-fi dongle power draw is obviously causing this.
Any thoughts please?
43
Technical Support / Re: Dead Rosetta - SD card slot has come adrift
« Last Post by grahambaker on March 31, 2024, 09:33:43 am »Thanks both - I've managed to find a brand new boxed 3B on eBay at not much more than half the price of a new 3B+. Perhaps better to stick with the devil I know, and lowers the possibility of power issues if I have to take it to another aircraft and run off a battery.
I'll contact Ashley once it arrives.
Once it's all working OK would the old one be of any use to PAW HQ for repair/cannibalising for ATOMs? I'll send it to you if so.
I'll contact Ashley once it arrives.
Once it's all working OK would the old one be of any use to PAW HQ for repair/cannibalising for ATOMs? I'll send it to you if so.
44
Technical Support / Re: Dead Rosetta - SD card slot has come adrift
« Last Post by JCurtis on March 31, 2024, 09:04:48 am »There is loads of stock of the 3B+ in the uk, Rapid electronics have 200+.
Definitely the easiest solution.
I thought they had ceased production of the 3B with the + version the direct replacement.
Definitely the easiest solution.
I thought they had ceased production of the 3B with the + version the direct replacement.
45
Technical Support / Re: Dead Rosetta - SD card slot has come adrift
« Last Post by exfirepro on March 31, 2024, 08:49:51 am »Hi Graham,
Thanks for posting - that's certainly a new one on me. I have come across a few dodgy microUSB sockets (including one of my own, which Jeremy kindly replaced for me), but have never come across a microSD slot casing become detached before.
The obvious cause would be downwards pressure (away from the printed circuit board) applied to the socket, such as if, for example, the Rosetta case was disassembled without first removing the microSD card - but that usually breaks the end off the card, not the socket. To force the socket off the board would require considerable leverage - unless of course the solder joints were already weak.
As the actual contacts are all on the PCB itself, it should just be a case of re-soldering the two front case mounts back onto the PCB - unless the force has lifted the solder tracks off the board. in which case there wil be nothing to solder to.
A replacement Raspberry Pi3B (not Pi3 B+ *) if you can find one, is the obvious fix, or a resolder if the tracks on the board are still intact. I have just swapped a Classic for a customer to an unused Pi3B which he got from eBay, so they can still be found. If you swap the Pi, remember to advise Ash (support@pilotaware.com) of the new MAC address and he will issue a new licence code for any remaining licence period.
* I run a Pi3B+ on one of my 'test' units. It will work, (though not officially supported) and draws a a fair bit more current than the 3B in use (though still well within the capability of your Charge2.
Please let us know how you get on.
Oh and OK on your comments re SE2.
Best Regards
Peter
Thanks for posting - that's certainly a new one on me. I have come across a few dodgy microUSB sockets (including one of my own, which Jeremy kindly replaced for me), but have never come across a microSD slot casing become detached before.
The obvious cause would be downwards pressure (away from the printed circuit board) applied to the socket, such as if, for example, the Rosetta case was disassembled without first removing the microSD card - but that usually breaks the end off the card, not the socket. To force the socket off the board would require considerable leverage - unless of course the solder joints were already weak.
As the actual contacts are all on the PCB itself, it should just be a case of re-soldering the two front case mounts back onto the PCB - unless the force has lifted the solder tracks off the board. in which case there wil be nothing to solder to.
A replacement Raspberry Pi3B (not Pi3 B+ *) if you can find one, is the obvious fix, or a resolder if the tracks on the board are still intact. I have just swapped a Classic for a customer to an unused Pi3B which he got from eBay, so they can still be found. If you swap the Pi, remember to advise Ash (support@pilotaware.com) of the new MAC address and he will issue a new licence code for any remaining licence period.
* I run a Pi3B+ on one of my 'test' units. It will work, (though not officially supported) and draws a a fair bit more current than the 3B in use (though still well within the capability of your Charge2.
Please let us know how you get on.
Oh and OK on your comments re SE2.
Best Regards
Peter
46
Technical Support / Re: Dead Rosetta - SD card slot has come adrift
« Last Post by grahambaker on March 31, 2024, 08:44:27 am »I've just seen that a new Pi 3B+ is about £40.
Can one of the tech team confirm yhat this will work OK? If so I may just short cut the process and buy a new one now.
Can one of the tech team confirm yhat this will work OK? If so I may just short cut the process and buy a new one now.
47
Technical Support / Re: Dead Rosetta - SD card slot has come adrift
« Last Post by JCurtis on March 30, 2024, 06:23:13 pm »The power up sequence will be because cranking the engine will cause a low voltage. This may cause the Charge2 to switch off, so reboot the Pi.
That looks recoverable, possibly. If you can’t get a replacement Pi easily happy to have a look at it.
That looks recoverable, possibly. If you can’t get a replacement Pi easily happy to have a look at it.
48
Technical Support / Dead Rosetta - SD card slot has come adrift - Updated
« Last Post by grahambaker on March 30, 2024, 04:43:08 pm »Some time ago I had some reliability issues with my 'powered by a Charge2' Rosetta, but these went away if I followed the mantra of pulling the USB port circuit breaker before engine shutdown, and not powering it up until after engine start. I was never really convinced that this really got to the bottom of the problem, but it's seemed to work for the last few months.
Out of the blue today the Rosetta just wouldn't work. USB or Anker battery, nada. All I'd get was three green flashes from the Bridge board, and a solid red light from the Pi, and nothing more. On the bench back at home I've found the problem, in that the outboard end of the SD card socket has come away from the Pi, leaving it hinged from the inboard end, so the poor bugger can't boot up and just sits there. I suspect a flakey SD socket connection has been the problem the whole while, and it's finally given up the ghost.
My soldering skills certainly aren't up to the job of reseating/replacing the SD card slot, so I'd welcome suggestions on options.
- can anyone replace the SD slot for me?
- has anyone a dead rosetta with a good Pi they'd sell me?
- is the right Pi still available to buy new?
- do PAW Towers offer a sensible trade in against an Fx?
- any other suggestions?
As an aside, I had to fly with a SkyEcho@ today in its place. My aircraft is certified ADSB out equippped so I was only using it in receive mode. Whilst it saw plenty of traffic, I remain convinced it's highly selective in what it does receive, as I flew above, behind, below and in front of a mate in another certified ADSB out equipped aircraft for two hours and it never saw him once, despite Vector showing his aircraft broadcasting loud and clear. I just can't bring myself to trust the SE2 the way I do the PAW.
Out of the blue today the Rosetta just wouldn't work. USB or Anker battery, nada. All I'd get was three green flashes from the Bridge board, and a solid red light from the Pi, and nothing more. On the bench back at home I've found the problem, in that the outboard end of the SD card socket has come away from the Pi, leaving it hinged from the inboard end, so the poor bugger can't boot up and just sits there. I suspect a flakey SD socket connection has been the problem the whole while, and it's finally given up the ghost.
My soldering skills certainly aren't up to the job of reseating/replacing the SD card slot, so I'd welcome suggestions on options.
- can anyone replace the SD slot for me?
- has anyone a dead rosetta with a good Pi they'd sell me?
- is the right Pi still available to buy new?
- do PAW Towers offer a sensible trade in against an Fx?
- any other suggestions?
As an aside, I had to fly with a SkyEcho@ today in its place. My aircraft is certified ADSB out equippped so I was only using it in receive mode. Whilst it saw plenty of traffic, I remain convinced it's highly selective in what it does receive, as I flew above, behind, below and in front of a mate in another certified ADSB out equipped aircraft for two hours and it never saw him once, despite Vector showing his aircraft broadcasting loud and clear. I just can't bring myself to trust the SE2 the way I do the PAW.
49
Technical Support / Re: FX data in and out - Skyview Compatible for both?
« Last Post by exfirepro on March 28, 2024, 08:46:11 pm »Hi Guys,
For clarification - RJ11 and RJ12 are both 6-pole connectors, but the older RJ11 only uses 4 internal conductors (wires) whereas RJ12 uses 6 wires.
RJ45 is a similar type of connector but is 8-pole. The Data Input and Data Output sockets used in Rosetta FX are both 8-pole RJ45 type, though it should be noted that 6-pole RJ12 plugs will fit into the centre 6 poles of an RJ45 socket.
Standard Flarm protocol uses a 6-pole convention, with the connectors designated as: -
Pin 1. Power Input (Normally + 12 volts DC)
Pin 2. Power Output (3.3Volts DC - to power Flarm Displays)
Pin 3. Ground (for Flarm Displays)
Pin 4. (output) Data out RS232 – transmit line
Pin 5. (input) Data in RS232 – receive line
Pin 6. Ground (Supply Negative)
Pins are numbered from right to left, with the securing clip 'below' the plug - or at the bottom of the socket.
The change from 6-pole RJ12 to 8-pole RJ45 (at least as far as Flarm was concerned) simply resulted in the addition of 'duplicate' positive and negative supply options on the two 'new' outer pins 1 and 8 respectively, with the inner 6 'original' pins simply being renumbered, but remaining in exactly the same order as they always have been (unless someone can show me evidence to the contrary that they have changed again since). Note you can't rely on wiring colours in commercially available cables - you MUST check the wiring colours against the pins - at both ends of a cable!!!
Looking at my PowerMouse Manual for example (which is the most recent Flarm Device I own), it uses 8-pole RJ45 plugs and sockets with the same standard Flarm wiring convention.
Pin number / Description
1 Power input +12 volts
2 Power input +12 volts
3 3.0V Indicator power output
4 Ground
5 Data output (TX)
6 Data input (RX)
7 Power input - negative
8 Power input - negative
FX wiring is essentially the same. If it wasn't, my 'standard' setup with PowerMouse powering and supplying data (GPS and Flarm Traffic) to FX, which in turn powers and provides direct through-put Flarm Traffic and Alert data to my LXNav FlarmLED display wouldn't work - (and it works perfectly).
The only departure I am aware of is that (unless it has changed in the production units) FX doesn't have 12 volt power on the Data Output port - so you can't power the Flarm Unit from the FX - though I will check this when I can get hold of the designers.
Regards
Peter
For clarification - RJ11 and RJ12 are both 6-pole connectors, but the older RJ11 only uses 4 internal conductors (wires) whereas RJ12 uses 6 wires.
RJ45 is a similar type of connector but is 8-pole. The Data Input and Data Output sockets used in Rosetta FX are both 8-pole RJ45 type, though it should be noted that 6-pole RJ12 plugs will fit into the centre 6 poles of an RJ45 socket.
Standard Flarm protocol uses a 6-pole convention, with the connectors designated as: -
Pin 1. Power Input (Normally + 12 volts DC)
Pin 2. Power Output (3.3Volts DC - to power Flarm Displays)
Pin 3. Ground (for Flarm Displays)
Pin 4. (output) Data out RS232 – transmit line
Pin 5. (input) Data in RS232 – receive line
Pin 6. Ground (Supply Negative)
Pins are numbered from right to left, with the securing clip 'below' the plug - or at the bottom of the socket.
The change from 6-pole RJ12 to 8-pole RJ45 (at least as far as Flarm was concerned) simply resulted in the addition of 'duplicate' positive and negative supply options on the two 'new' outer pins 1 and 8 respectively, with the inner 6 'original' pins simply being renumbered, but remaining in exactly the same order as they always have been (unless someone can show me evidence to the contrary that they have changed again since). Note you can't rely on wiring colours in commercially available cables - you MUST check the wiring colours against the pins - at both ends of a cable!!!
Looking at my PowerMouse Manual for example (which is the most recent Flarm Device I own), it uses 8-pole RJ45 plugs and sockets with the same standard Flarm wiring convention.
Pin number / Description
1 Power input +12 volts
2 Power input +12 volts
3 3.0V Indicator power output
4 Ground
5 Data output (TX)
6 Data input (RX)
7 Power input - negative
8 Power input - negative
FX wiring is essentially the same. If it wasn't, my 'standard' setup with PowerMouse powering and supplying data (GPS and Flarm Traffic) to FX, which in turn powers and provides direct through-put Flarm Traffic and Alert data to my LXNav FlarmLED display wouldn't work - (and it works perfectly).
The only departure I am aware of is that (unless it has changed in the production units) FX doesn't have 12 volt power on the Data Output port - so you can't power the Flarm Unit from the FX - though I will check this when I can get hold of the designers.
Regards
Peter
50
Technical Support / Re: External antenna gps - ok to mount on an aluminium bracket?
« Last Post by exfirepro on March 28, 2024, 07:02:50 pm »Hi Martin,
As previously advised, perfectly OK to mount it on a small bracket as long as it is kept 'right side up'.
Just a minor point - are you aware that the GPS mouse contains a magnet - which of course won't stick to aluminium, but would mount perfectly onto a light steel bracket... (or you could of course use double-sided tape).
Best Regards
Peter
As previously advised, perfectly OK to mount it on a small bracket as long as it is kept 'right side up'.
Just a minor point - are you aware that the GPS mouse contains a magnet - which of course won't stick to aluminium, but would mount perfectly onto a light steel bracket... (or you could of course use double-sided tape).
Best Regards
Peter