PilotAware
British Forum => Technical Support => Topic started by: chipmeisterc on June 15, 2017, 09:50:14 pm
-
Hi all,
Have just received my PilotAware, followed instructions to plug all the bits in (minus screwing case on) have tried to power up but nothing seems to happen. Have tried from pc usb output and then from samsung galaxy s7 usb plug (which can do 2.0 amp output) I am using the supplied lead. Any suggestions? There isn't an on button is there? :)
-
Just to add have left for 3-4mins no activity. No noises, no lights.
Have tried removing the board from the case entirely, can't see where led's should be - but no lights coming on at all on board when power plugged in.
Lead tested with other device and works fine. Do I have a dodgy board? :(
Interestingly, I bought one of the recommendee Anker power blocks. If I plug phone into it it charges and blue lights come on on anker. If I plug into PilotAware it does nothing and no blue lights on anker
-
Sounds very strange as the units are all reassembled and tested prior to dispatch, so should work. Very unlikely that you have a dodgy board or it wouldn't have run in pre-dispatch testing. It's worth checking that the micro SD card is properly clicked into its slot in case it has become dislodged in transit. The unit should show a solid red led on the opposite end of the Raspberry Pi from the USB sockets to show 'power on', then a flashing green as it boots up. It won't go into full operation until it boots up fully and gets a solid gps fix, which can easily take 20 minutes or more first time round and needs a good view of the satellites - i.e. best done outside with a clear view of the southern sky.
PilotAware is extremely unlikely to run off a laptop USB output, by the way. Re your Anker power block, can you post a link or whatever to the model you bought as there have been reports of some of the new versions with 'Intelligent charging circuitry' refusing to recognise the Raspberry Pi. Power Block is still likely to be the best option to power the PAW at this stage.
Regards
Peter
-
Hi Peter,
Thanks for the reply.
The model is"Anker PowerCore 20100 - Ultra High Capacity Power Bank with one of the Most Powerful 4.8A Output, PowerIQ Technology for iPhone 7 /6s /SE, iPad and Samsung Galaxy S8 / S7 and More (Black)"
I have just got the multimeter out.. Getting 0v at pp1 and pp2 on PI from both the Anker and the 5v 2amp plug to usb :( (Using SD card case as ground) so not drawing any power at all
-
Sorry, was busy editing/updating previous post.
Certainly sounds like the right power block. Have you checked that the micro SD is properly located?
Peter
-
Try removing all the dongles from the USB slots and rebooting the bare Raspberry Pi
Peter
-
Hi Peter, I have removed all connections from the board, including the bridge. Testing voltages at pp1 and pp2 I am getting 0v so it looks like there is no power getting into the device from the usb power port - it is not loose on the board/no obvious signs of damage.
-
Ok another update. Decided to give the usb lead that came with my Galaxy S7 a go, instead of the supplied lead. Interestingly I am now reading 4.97v at PP1 and PP2. If I read at PP7 however I am getting 0v, confirmed by testing either side of the PolyFuse. So now getting some power but looks like the fuse has gone...
-
I've never known one of the supplied leads go faulty - that's why we supply them as in the early 'homebuild' days, units would regularly fail to boot due to poor quality power cables or supplies causing inadequate supply voltage. I've certainly never known a polyfuse to blow. I suggest you drop an email to pilotawarehardware@gmail.com Mark it FTAO Dave Styles. Dave will be able to advise on returning the unit for replacement.
Regards
Peter
-
Hugely appreciate your help, these things happen. Will drop him an email now.
Thanks,
Chris
-
You're welcome. Replacement should work as intended. Any probs, you know where to ask.
Regards
Peter
p.s. Just thinking, 4.97 volts still sounds a bit low. You need to be sure your power supply can supply 2 amps without dropping below 5 volts, though this could of course be due to a faultt on the board. P
-
If the short was before the fuse, it would not blow and a lot of smoke will get out. If after the fuse, it will blow, but the short will no longer hold the voltage down. So I doubt the issue is a short.
-
Hi Chris
Can I ask you try another power supply, and also try all different outputs from the Anker.
If I recall correctly, poweriq may use a soft start charge startup, there is a similar charger easyacc which has an issue
Thx
Lee
-
Hi Lee,
I have just tried Anker again that now gives me 5.13v at pp1 and pp2 with my lead. 0 with supplied lead. 0v at pp7 so polyfuse has def gone and doesn't seem to be showing any signs of coming back to life.
-
Hi Chris
Can I ask you try another power supply, and also try all different outputs from the Anker.
If I recall correctly, poweriq may use a soft start charge startup, there is a similar charger easyacc which has an issue
Thx
Lee
That was what I was alluding to last night Lee. Still confused by the 0 volts with the supplied lead but showing a voltage on a different lead, though, unless the Samsung lead is introducing a slightly higher resistance and switching the IQ circuitry 'on'.
author=chipmeisterc link=topic=932.msg11424#msg11424 date=1497599260]
Hi Lee,
I have just tried Anker again that now gives me 5.13v at pp1 and pp2 with my lead. 0 with supplied lead. 0v at pp7 so polyfuse has def gone and doesn't seem to be showing any signs of coming back to life.
Chris,
I'd still like to see a link to the actual Anker Pack you bought if you can manage to post one please. Sellers description sounds like the same ones I use (from Amazon), but would be useful to know definitively, as I know Anker have brought out a newer version with updated 'intelligent' charging circuitry, which we know has caused issues with other makes.
Regards
Peter
-
(https://preview.ibb.co/d3HWHk/b.jpg)
(https://preview.ibb.co/dXmrHk/a.jpg)
I get the same 0v lead issue when using the Anker or the Samsung 5v 2amp plug->usb, so don't think the Anker is the issue. (But oddly I can charge phone if I use the supplied lead from both Anker and Plug)
I have just heard back from Dave who has kindly agreed to arrange a replacement. Will get the unit back in the post today. Will be interested what he discovers.
Thanks again for the help :)
-
In the USB spec a "power thief" can only draw up to 500ma (0.5 A), and that is exactly what as Raspberry Pi is as it only has the two power leads connected to anything on the power in port. Some smart chargers will put a current limit on such devices, which is fine according to the spec, but not great for the real world.
That said if the resistance across the poly fuse is anything other than a few ohms, it is a rabbit of negative euphoria* and will need replacing.
* For those who haven't found "Cabin Pressure" that was on Radio 4 your seriously missing out...
-
Chris,
Exactly the same Anker Pack as the ones I use, so certainly would have no worries there. Good to hear Dave has things in hand for a replacement unit.
Jeremy,
Useful advice as always. I will investigate the reference.
Regards both
Peter
-
* For those who haven't found "Cabin Pressure" that was on Radio 4 your seriously missing out...
Big fan too
;D
-
That said if the resistance across the poly fuse is anything other than a few ohms, it is a rabbit of negative euphoria* and will need replacing.
* For those who haven't found "Cabin Pressure" that was on Radio 4 your seriously missing out...
Not a happy bunny
We are also big fans
What is your view on where "Fitton" is EGBE or EGBB? Or elsewhere??
-
Hi all,
Just to follow up on this, I have been so busy with work that I totally forgot to return the unit to David to take a look at. The good news is that I have now sourced a new PI2B and having plugged everything in it seems to work. (With a trial key obtained from licencing website)
The bad news is, because I have a new PI2B the MAC address isn't recognized when I enter it for a 1st year system key and therefore I cannot get a full key. I have just emailed David regarding this but I am not sure who the correct person is to handle this? Ideally I either need my new MAC address added to the licencing database or for a key to be provided. Happy to PM mac address over if that helps.
Thanks,
Chris
-
Chris, contact Lee by PM as he is the person to sort out Licences, not Dave. As soon as he is aware, he turns it around in no time.
That reminds me, I have one to change as well.
-
Chris I will sort this tomorrow, I presume the correct hostid, will be the one you generated a demo key, If so I will set that as the correct key
Thx
Lee
-
Hi Lee,
Yes please, the hostid from the demo key is the one. (Key generated today)
Many thanks!
Chris
-
Hi Lee,
Any updates on the key? I have just tried entering my Mac address again and still getting the same error.
Many thanks,
Chris
-
Hi Lee,
Any updates on the key? I have just tried entering my Mac address again and still getting the same error.
Many thanks,
Chris
Email en-route ...
-
Received, many thanks :)
Left the PilotAware running all day yesterday in my Window with Zaon MRX on top and tablet on my desk to keep an eye on traffic as I worked. Really impressed with the results so far! The MRX seems to have better range for C and S traffic but the Pilot Aware seemed to give better relative altitude readings. Looking forward to going flying and testing properly!
Keep up the great work.
-
Chris,
I take it you know you can adjust Mode C/S 'Range' in PilotAware on your 'Configure' Screen. Due to the way bearingless targets are handled, this is effectively a sensitivity adjustment rather than a true 'range' setting but moving to a longer range will pass more traffic to your audio alerts and Nav Display. Also just double-check you DO have Mode C/S enabled - it is disabled by default when the units are shipped. In Mode C/S Select, you need to select Mode S, or C/S AND if you are running a transponder in the same aircraft - use the Mode C/S + Filter setting.
Glad to hear you are finally getting results.
Regards
Peter
-
Hi Peter,
Thanks for the reply. The settings I was using were:
Mode C/S Separation: +-2000ft
Mode C/S Range:Long Range
Mode C/S Select:Mode-CS(Beta)
That said I am testing in Windowsill of house in a residential area so I'm sure there are lots of reflections etc messing with the signal. Looking forward to testing properly in the aircraft :)
P.S Thanks for pointing out what Filtering does, I was going to ask.. Will remember to set that when I go flying.
-
Chris,
All OK, but to improve your chances of seeing traffic from your windowsill, I'd open up your vertical separation to the max - and also do the same in your Nav System (which controls known position targets i.e. ADS-B and P3i). This helps to get you used to the different types of alerts quicker, then you can readjust to what you actually want for practical flying later on (probably medium or even short range for Mode C/S to limit the audio alerts).
Regards
Peter
-
Thanks Peter. (Edit-question removed, read the manual!)
-
Well Done :)
Peter