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Messages - rogellis

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1
OGN-R PilotAware / Re: New Stations Added
« on: December 04, 2019, 03:51:55 pm »

It appears the station is only picking up PilotAware traffic - No ADSB and no FLARM.
If we can install the latest software, as per these instructions
http://forum.pilotaware.com/index.php/topic,1760.msg19000.html#msg19000
We can get access remotely to diagnose (you will need to share a login password)

I put in the new sim card I bought from you, with the new software on it.
Is it not giving that version?

Edit - I see there is a new version.
It says ‘after logging on to the OGN’.
How do I log on to the OGN...?

R

2
OGN-R PilotAware / Re: New Stations Added
« on: November 30, 2019, 08:43:24 pm »
Hi all,

I have finally got the Long Mynd station up on the new tower and working properly.  From this high point, we can see from Birmingham to the Welsh coast, and from Whitchurch to the Brecon Beacons.

I have also added a small ADSB antenna, but no idea if it is working.  It is a bit shaded by the (huge) anemometer, which I presumed was plastic but turned out to be 1950s metal (and still going....).  Can anyone see if the ADSB bit is working?

Roger

.

3
Technical Support / Re: Power Outage / UPS/ Possible solution
« on: November 17, 2019, 06:18:57 pm »
.
I put a (largeish) capacitor in the 5v circuit out of the Anker DC converter.

It was recommended for the electronic instruments I am using, to stop transients from resetting the instruments.  I figured if it would help the instruments survive transients, it would help the PAW too. 

Roger

4
Technical Support / Re: How can I tell if MLAT is working?
« on: November 17, 2019, 06:12:14 pm »
.
I installed and ADSB antenna on our OGN station at the Mynd.  How do I find out if it is working.?

Also, using the standard ‘radar’ depiction on an iPad, what do the Mlat aircraft icons look like?
Do you have a screen-grab? 

Roger.

5


just because you don't see it, doesn't mean it isn't there  :-[



Another problem is the lack of icon differentiation on the various displays.  You are looking for an aircraft, when the contact might actually be a white (flarm) glider on a white background.  And gliders are notoriously difficult to spot.

I did suggest more differentiation of aircraft icons, to both PAW and SD, but there is not too much progress on that.   I see SD differentiates between aircraft and helicopters, which is a start.

RE


6

just because you don't see it, doesn't mean it isn't there  :-[



Indeed, I regularly have the same problem with TCAS
     - but I presume that TCAS is doing its job properly....!


RE

7
Technical Support / Re: Radio interference fully cured....!
« on: July 30, 2019, 07:21:09 pm »
.
An update to the radio interference problems.

I was promised that a super-spec 9v DC converter from a quality manufacturer would power the radio without any electrical losses, and be RF quiet.   

Well, it was anything but RF quiet.  Whenever you put the DC converter anywhere near any of the other circuitry, the radio was back up to squelch 12 or above.  And a ferrite core had little effect on the interference.  And the power consumption was not that much better than with the (lossy and warm) regulator.

As soon as I went back to the regulator, I was back to squelch 2 or 3.   So while regulators are not perfect, they seem to be the only choice in this particular case.  (Anker do not make a 7.5v or 9v converter.)

RE

8
Technical Support / Re: Aircrew display
« on: July 30, 2019, 07:12:36 pm »

I have an Aircrew due for delivery this week (it was delayed).

It can either run as an attitude indicator on a 12v supply, or it can run as a PAW display via a USB connection with the PAW.  In the latter case, it draws 5v supply through your PAW unit, so you need to make sure your PAW DC supply is adequate.  The PAW draws about 5 W, while the Aircrew draws nearly 3W - so your DC converter needs to supply 8W minimum (double that for peak demands).   A 2.5A supply on the 5v side should do it.

Unlike the PAW, the Aircrew is voltage impervious, accepting 9 to 18v.  It achieves this via a regulator, which is great for reducing magnetism effects on the internal flux-sensors, but is electrically lossy.  A PAW with a regulator would push power consumption up to 6 or 7W.

I aim to test the Aircrew as soon as it arrives, so will report further.

RE









9
Technical Support / Re: Rosetta securing threads
« on: July 30, 2019, 06:59:18 pm »
Not sure where you are proposing to mount your Rosetta, but I have had very satisfactory results using sticky backed velcro.

It is under the coaming, so will have to survive a 7g turn without falling off (glider certified to 5.5g).   

The camera mount screw works fine, and the big head to these screws helps, although I did have to de-gauss it. 

And my Aircrew PAW display unit is due for delivery this week too. 
It is all coming together, slowly....

RE

10
Technical Support / Rosetta securing threads
« on: July 19, 2019, 03:38:50 pm »
.
Any idea what diameter and thread of bolt will fit the brass threads in the Rosetta?  I tried a few bolts at the local hardware store, and could not get one to fit.  It does not appear to be metric.

Thanks,
R

11
Technical Support / Radio interference fully cured....!
« on: July 14, 2019, 01:17:38 pm »
At last, I have radio silence ... oh joy.  And it is not very difficult to achieve, either.

Problem one:
I had a cheap Chinese dc converter on the PAW, which was hugely noisy.  Bad move.
Squelch on setting 14 (max)

Solution one:
I fitted an Anker dc converter instead.  Much better.
Squelch on setting 10

Problem two:
I had a cheap Chinese dc converter on the radio, which was hugely noisy.  Bad move.
Squelch on setting 10

Solution two:
I fitted the dc converter that came with the radio - which was a bit better.
But then I fitted a voltage regulator instead of a dc converter - much better.
Squelch on setting 6.

Problem three:
Some interference was still getting in from the Anker converter powering the PAW.  Grrr....
Squelch on setting 6

Solution three:
Fit a thrice-wrapped ferrite core to the Anker Feed Line.
Squelch on setting 2.

Harmony and bliss.....

.

Notes:

a.  The new voltage regulator for the radio is VERY RF quiet, but not very efficient.  Not too bad on receive (1 W), but only about 65% efficient on transmit (11 W).  So it is wasteful of energy, and needs a heat-sink.   You could also run the PAW from a voltage regulator, which would be fine if you have a generator, but no good if you run on batteries.  So for battery opps, the Anker is the only choice.

b.  However, while the Anker is a great unit, it is still pumping some RF back down the 12v cables that feed it, turning your whole electrical system into an RF transmitter.  Bad news. 
The huge ferrite core I used came with the radio, and is meant for the 9v lines that feed the radio.  But it made little difference there.  So I took this core, and thrice-wound it onto the 12v cable feeding the Anker, and the radio interference dropped immediately.
I then tested a 2m long 12v cable to the Anker.  All the cable leading up to the ferrite core was RF quiet, while all the cable on the Anker side of the core was RF active.  (You only need to bring the Anker feed-cable next to the radio feed-cable, and you get interference.)   So by placing the ferrite core right next to the Anker, the amount of cable causing interference is minimal, and the radio goes quiet.

So I am now running on squelch 1 with the PAW off, and squelch 2 or sometimes 3 with it on (some frequencies are more naturally noisy than others.)

Happy listening....


P.S. 
The voltage regulator is a T-220 9v unit (L78S09CV).  Cost 43p from Farnell.
Plus two capacitors, which were about 2p each.
And a simple circuit that even I could understand and solder....!!

Note:  This voltage regulator is not big enough to run a PAW, and is of the wrong voltage...


RE


12
Technical Support / Rosetta brackets
« on: June 10, 2019, 05:21:24 pm »

Looking for some support brackets or cradle for the Rosetta.

I would like the Rosetta affixed under the coaming, with the antenna poking through.   But to do this the PAW would have to be upside down, to get the antenna sticking far enough out of the coaming (coaming is carbon fiber).  So a strap or bracket would be nice, as the usual fixing is on the other side of the unit.

The alternative would be remote antenna, as I did with a previous unit. 

RE

13
Technical Support / Re: PAW noise on radio (SOLVED)
« on: May 18, 2019, 08:37:30 am »
In addition...

Even the Anker power supply is not perfect.

I have now hooked up the PAW to a small speaker, and it was very noisy (with PAW noise).   But there is no noise when I run the speaker on internal battery.   (Same problem I had previously.)

Ok, I know now that I can stop this with a ground-isolator in the audio circuit, but it does mean that the Anker is far from perfect.


P.S.  The vario also puts out a load of crackle and hiss, when connected to the speaker and the Anker together.  But again, complete silence if the speaker runs on internal battery (or if I include the ground loop isolator).

R


14
Technical Support / Re: PAW noise on radio (SOLVED)
« on: May 17, 2019, 08:55:41 pm »
Talking of radio RF interference...

Another source of radio interference is the 12-9v DC converter that runs the radio.   Again a cheap Chinese job.   

I tried a strip-down of the (much better) original DC converter that came with the radio, but you have to be so careful about anything touching the coil inside it, as that immediately gives radio hiss.

Going back to the cheapo unit, if I hold the outgoing wires from the DC converter, all hiss stops (repeatable 100%).  But I don’t think me holding the wires is a long term solution. 

I tried a ferrous ring, but no difference.  So I spanned the two wires with a 1,500 ohm capacitor, and that stopped most of the hiss.  Not as good as me, as a suppressor, but nearly there....

Is there anything better I can use, to stop the hiss by the electrical feed?   A decent DC converter would be nice, but cannot find one in that 12-9v range.

Cheers,
R

15
Technical Support / Re: PAW noise on radio (SOLVED)
« on: May 17, 2019, 08:46:53 pm »
Ok, thank Lee, a slightly better way of doing it.   If my soldering skills are up to it (without dropping solder into the unit...!)

R



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